|BEHEMOTH'S MONSTER IN MY POCKET COLLECTIVE|
I finally got a system to play NES and I have added a walkthrough of the game to the MIMP Memorabilia section and on my YouTube channel Behemoth MIMP and Games. I hope you enjoy my nerdish ramblings and have fun watching the video.
As a continuation of last week's board game rules post, here is the text for the Return of the Dinosaurs Board Game:
Return of the Dinosaurs
Spear's Games No. 20005
A game for 2 to 4 players aged 4+
Pack of 24 'fact' cards
4 dinosaur figures
Pack of 32 'dig' cards
The Dinosaur Dig
You will need: The playing board
4 dinosaur playing pieces
32 'dig' cards (with orange backs)
Aim of the game
This game is for younger players, and the aim of the game is to be the first player to collect the 4 cards that make up the picture of a whole dinosaur - head, front legs, back legs, and tail. Pieces are collected by landing on a pile of cards and 'digging'.
Place the playing board between all the players with the 'Dig' side face up (see diagram on page 3). Take the pack of orange-backed 'dig' cards and shuffle them well. Deal them out into four piles of eight cards each and place a pile on each of the orange spaces on the board. Each player chooses a dinosaur and places it on one of the four piles. Take the die and off you go ...
Playing the game
The youngest player begins, and play continues in a clockwise direction. The first player rolls the die and moves their dinosaur round the board that number of spaces following the direction of the dinosaur footprints. Only the card piles and the craters count as spaces.
If a player lands on a pile of cards, they roll the die again and count down that number of cards to find the card that they should take. So, if a player rolls a 3, they put the top card to the bottom of the pile, and the same with the next card, and then take the third card. They put the card face up in front of them and give the die to the next player.
No player can have more than two cards of any type (head, body, tail etc.). If a player picks up a card they have two of already, the card is put back in the pile and the pile shuffled.
No more than one dinosaur can be on one space at the same time. If your move would land you on a space occupied by another dinosaur, then move to the next available space.
Winning the game
The first player to collect the four different cards that make up a complete dinosaur is the winner. For a longer game, be the first player to collect two complete dinosaurs.
Escape from the Volcano
You will need: the playing board
4 dinosaur figures
pack of 24 'fact' cards (blue backs)
4 red counters
Aim of the game
This is a game for older players, as reading is required. The aim of this game is to escape from the erupting volcano in the centre of the board. This is done by winning battles with the other dinosaurs.
Put the playing board between all the players with the volcano side face up. (see diagram on page 3). Take the pack of blue-backed 'fact' cards and shuffle them well. Deal out six cards to each player and place any remaining cards to one side.
Each player chooses a dinosaur and takes a counter. Place the dinosaur on one of the squares with a yellow arrow and put the counter on the circular picture of your dinosaur's head, at the beginning of the volcano track. Take the die and you're off ...
About the fact cards
Battling the dinosaurs is done using the 'fact' cards. If you look at one of the cards you will see a picture of a dinosaur, and some facts about it - its name and how to pronounce it, when it lived, its age, weight, length, and ferocity, as well as some idea of what it ate.
The four categories in the middle of the card are colour coded and these colours relate to the four spaces in the corners of the board. When you land on one of these spaces you can battle all the other players using your strongest cards in that category.
Playing the game
The youngest player starts, and play continues clockwise. Roll the die and move your dinosaur that number of spaces in the direction of the arrows. When you land on one of the four corner squares you must challenge all the other players to a dinosaur battle.
Each player chooses a card from their hand and puts it face up in the centre. The player landing on the space starts. The player who wins is the one who plays the card with the highest value in the category of that corner square. They take the cards they have won, place them to one side, and move their counter one space along the volcano track. If two or more players put down a card with the same value, the hand is tied and no one wins.
No more than one dinosaur can be on one space at the same time. If a move would land a player on a space occupied by another dinosaur, then they must move to the next available space.
After six battles, the player whose turn it was on the last battle shuffles all the cards together and deals them out again. The game continues as before, starting with the player to his or her left.
Winning the game
The winner is the first player to win ten battles and therefore escape from the volcano.
About the Dinosaurs
Dinosaurs lived on the Earth for around 150 million years, first appearing around 230 million years ago. It is difficult to imagine such a long period of time, but if we think of each of those years as just one hour, then the Battle of Hastings took place just over a month ago, King Tutankamen reigned in Egypt around four and a half months ago and the first real humans were living something like eleven and a half years ago. However, even on this basis, the first dinosaurs appeared over twenty six thousand years ago, and the last ones died out about seven thousand years ago.
The name 'dinosaur' come from the Greek words meaning 'terrible lizard'. The name was given to them by the paleontologist Sir Richard Owen in 1841. Owen thought that all dinosaurs were the same 'family' of reptiles, but we know now that there were actually two types - Saurischia (such as the Tyrannosaurus Rex) which had a bone structure similar to today's lizards and Ornithischia (such as the Stegosaurus) which were more closely related to today's birds !
Here are some details regarding the dinosaurs that come with your game :
This plant-eating dinosaur dates from the Upper Jurassic period, which makes it nearly 180 million years old. It was 7.5 metres long and weighed around 3.5 tonnes. The large plates sticking out of its back are thought to have helped it regulate its body temperature. The Stegosaurus is perhaps best known for having had three 'brains' - it had extra nerve ganglia at the top and bottom of its spine, which were used to control the head and the tail.
Better known as 'Brontosaurus', or 'Thunder Lizard', Apatosaurus measured an average of 21 metres, or 70 feet in length, and weighed in at 30 tonnes. A plant eater, Apatosaurus also flourished in the Jurassic period, around 140 million years ago.
Triceratops is from a sub-order of Ornithischia called the ceratopsians, characterised by their large, horned skulls. Triceratops was the largest of these, measuring in at 9 metres and weighing around 10 tonnes. Remains of this dinosaur have been found in sites across America and Canada dating from the Upper Cretaceous period - around 130 to 80 million years ago.
This fearsome meat-eater stood on two legs and was around 3 metres long, but could grow larger. It lived in both America and Africa during the Upper Jurassic period. It would have preyed on slower, weaker dinosaurs and other animals.
This is the dinosaur which is pictured on the cards in the 'Dinosaur Dig' game. Camarasaurus was a massive saurapod which grew up to 17.5 metres long. A gentle plant eater, it lived in the Upper Jurassic period, around 180 to 150 million years ago.
This is not a normal Blog Post. Instead I have copied the text and pictures from the Monster in My Pocket Board Game. I hope this helps anyone that has the game and no instructions. The text is also listed under the MIMP Memorabilia section on this site.
Monster in My Pocket
The Legend of the Monster Code of Battle
For centuries, monsters argued about who was the most awesome monster of all. Soon it became clear a World Monster War could erupt. An emergency meeting of the World Monster Council was called. All monsters from around the globe took part in the negotiations. In the end, a Monster Code of Battle was decreed. It read as follows:
"When a monster declares war upon another monster, a single battle will decide the conflict. Each leader must send a 'chosen' warrior to a one-on-one battle. A clash of monster armies is prohibited. In this way, a World Monster War will be avoided and the Earth will not suffer the terrible destructive effects such a war would produce."
Afterwards, all monsters followed the Monster Code of Battle. But, monsters being monsters, the debate still raged. Who was the best? The strongest monsters built up their armies and increased their pool of warriors. Who will be the Supreme Leader of the Monster World. Let's play and see!
The gameboard is divided into four territories:
THE VOLCANO PIT: a hot rocky place where the sun always shines and volcanoes blow their tops!
THE SWAMP: an oozing, gas filled place with gross slime, bubbling water, creepy trees, dangling vines and moss.
THE ICE CAVE: a mammoth, frozen lair with a mile long ice bridge. The ice cave is on top of the world's highest mountain.
NEW YORK CITY: a favorite haven for monsters, the city is a huge metropolis covered with an eerie fog, with endless closets, alleyways, rooftops and sewers.
Within each territory there are three special spaces:
TUNNEL: a kind of black hole through the Earth. Land on the entrance to a tunnel, and you get sucked through to the other side! You travel over 6,000 miles in one second.
FORCE FIELD: an impenetrable shield of highly charged ions which generates its energy from the glow of victory. All victorious monsters move into a force field and are protected from being called into battle for one turn. The only time a playing piece can be on a force field is after a victory. Normally, playing pieces may move across force fields but cannot land on them.
TRANSPORTER: a super hi-tech machine that allows you to molecularly move any opponent to where you are! Transporters are used to call an opponent monster to battle (whether they are willing or not). However, transporters cannot move a monster that is being protected by a force field.
OBJECT OF THE GAME:
Collect Monster Warrior Cards to build an army and challenge other players in a series of battles. The winner of the most battles is declared Supreme Leader of the Monster World.
1. Choose a playing piece. Playing pieces are referred to as "Monster Leaders." Use any monster from your MONSTER IN MY POCKET collection or use one of the four monster figures enclosed in the game.
2. Two to four players can play. Place all playing pieces in the start space at the center of the gameboard.
3. From the deck of Monster Warrior Cards, remove the cards that match the playing pieces being used. For example, if your playing piece is the "Tengu" remove the Tengu card from the deck of cards and so on. If you have 4 players in a game, you will have 44 Monster Warrior Cards to choose from (48 - 4 = 44). Shuffle these cards. Randomly pick any 24 cards to use in this gameplay (16 cards if only two people are playing). The other cards are not used and should be returned to the box.
4. Randomly place the Monster Warrior Cards on the gameboard with the picture side up! See figure 1 for an example of 24 cards placed on the gameboard. Do not look at the back of the cards! Also do not place cards on a tunnel, transporter, or force field space.
5. You are ready to play.
PLAYING THE GAME:
1. Begin. Decide who goes first. Play will then proceed clockwise.
2. The Spinner. The first player spins the spinner. After the first player has moved, the second player will spin the spinner and so on. The arrow on the spinner can point to one of three possibilities:
a) 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6 - The player moves his Monster Leader playing piece around the grid of the gameboard the number of spaces indicated on the spinner. Playing pieces can move horizontally and vertically but, not diagonally.
b) GIVE A CARD TO ANOTHER PLAYER - If you have any Monster Warrior Cards, you must give one card of your choice to any other player.
c) TAKE A CARD FROM ANOTHER PLAYER - You may take one Monster Warrior Card from any other player. Select the one you want. Add the card to your Monster Warrior Cards (remember, don't look at the back of the card)!
3. Collecting Monster Warrior Cards. You will move your Monster Leader around the gameboard to collect Monster Warrior Cards to build an army of warriors. You collect cards by landing on them at the end of your move. When you land on a Monster Warrior Card, remove the card from the gameboard and place the card in front of you with the picture of the Monster face-up! The back of each card shows the Monster Warrior's strength in each of the four territories: The Volcano Pit, The Swamp, The Ice Cave and New York City. You must not look at the back of the cards until the Monster Warriors are engaged in battle. When you have collected at least one Monster Warrior, you will be able to battle other players. The object is to win as many battles as you can. You may build your army first, or you may try to battle when you have one Warrior. A battle may take place in any of the four territories on the gameboard. However, your opponent must have a Warrior for you to engage him in battle. Remember, your Warriors will have different fighting strengths in each territory so you will want to choose your Warrior carefully when you battle.
4. Starting A Battle. There are two ways to start a monster battle:
a) Land on a space occupied by another player, or
b) Land on a transporter space and immediately bring another player's Monster Leader to the same transporter space (any playing piece you want, whether they like it or not).
According to the Monster Code of Battle, when two Monster Leaders fight, they each must send a Warrior to a one-on-one battle. Choose your Monster Warrior based on how strong you think it will be in the territory where the Monster Leaders are battling. Applying logic greatly improves your chances of winning. For example, wouldn't Bigfoot get overheated in the Volcano Pit with his heavy fur coat? Or wouldn't a dinosaur like Tyrannosaurus Rex fight well in The Swamp?
5. Fighting A Battle. The two players each select one Warrior from their respective armies and throw the cards into the center of the gameboard. As you throw the cards, each player yells "(name of your Monster Warrior) will destroy you." The two Monster Warrior cards are then flipped over and compared for fighting strength in the territory where the Monster Leaders are located. The fighting strengths for Warriors, in order from lowest to highest are:
Weak, Normal, Strong and Superpower
The Warrior with the highest rating wins the battle for his Monster Leader. In a tie, the player who started the battle wins (because he had the element of surprise on his side). The player who wins the battle takes both Warrior Cards and creates a separate "victory pile" of his own to keep score. In other words, the two Warrior Cards are "retired" and are not used again in this game.
6. Immediately After A Battle. After the winning player has placed the two Monster Warrior Cards in his "victory pile," the Monster Leader playing piece of the winner is immediately moved to any force field space of his choice. The victorious Monster Leader is protected from battle for one round of play (even a transporter cannot call this Monster Leader to battle). The losing Monster Leader is left behind on the same space in defeat. The game continues with the next player.
SPECIAL SPACES ON THE GAMEBOARD:
There are three kinds of special spaces on the gameboard as follows:
Tunnel: A tunnel is an underground pipeline or black hole to another territory. There are two tunnels on the gameboard. One connects The Ice Cave to The Volcano Pit, the other connects The Swamp to New York City . A tunnel is the quickest way to move to the other side of the gameboard. When a Monster Leader playing piece lands on a tunnel entrance, it is immediately sucked to the other end of the tunnel and then continues to move. See figure 2 for an example of how to move through a tunnel. Players can actually loop through two tunnels in a single move (see if you can figure out how).
Force Field: A force field space is used to protect a Monster Leader from battle for one round. A force field is only active after a battle, and only the winning Monster Leader can move there. During the game, a force field space counted like regular spaces (because it is inactive). But no player can land on a force field. That privilege is reserved for winners of battles. Two Monster Leaders cannot occupy the same force field space at the same time.
Transporter: When your Monster Leader lands on a transporter, you immediately move an opponent's Monster Leader (of your choice) to the space with you. This starts a battle. The advantage of using transporter to start a battle is that you bring your opponent to you. If you have Warriors that you think are strong in a particular territory, you can force other Monster Leaders to fight there. However, a transporter is not powerful enough to penetrate a force field, so you cannot move a Monster Leader being protected by a force field.
ENDING THE GAME:
A player is out of the game when he is out of Monster Warrior Cards and there are no more cards on the gameboard to collect. Their Monster Leader playing piece is removed from the game. The game is over when all but one player is out of Monster Warrior Cards and there are no more cards on the gameboard to collect. The player with the most Monster Warrior Cards in their "victory pile" is the winner (any Cards that have not been in battle are not counted). The winner is declared Supreme Leader of the Monster World! All other Monster Leaders bow to the Supreme Leader - at least until the next game!
This is going to be a different style blog post than normal. Because this is a fascinating discovery for me. I recently bought some MIMP from Ebay that appeared to be Matchbox Series 1 in different colors than have previously been discovered. I bid on them expecting them to be Sonrics or Italian figures, but hoping they were real.
I got them in last week and finally took pictures of them (I'll put them all at the bottom of this article if you want to skip down and look. I'll wait...) Yellow Hydra, Yellow Harpy, Olive Haniver and Red Haniver have all been thought to not exist...until now.
I have looked at them in some detail and all the sizes match up. The markings on the bottom of the feet match up to the original figures. The colors match up except the Olive Haniver, which appears faded. Even the molding flaws are the same.
At this point, I will add the pictures and let everyone come to their own conclusions. Needless to say I am excited to have these in my collection. Please share your thoughts below.
My next topic for discussion is how to clean your MIMP.
Let me start by showing you something that you cannot clean:
If you look you can see lots of red stains on these figures. This is called red fade and results from red or orange figures bleeding colors onto other figures. It can occur from compression (such as being stored in a large bag or bin), and possibly from long exposure in hot conditions, though this has not been proven yet.
There is no known way to remove red fade, and collector's have tried bleach and every cleaning agent known to man. It appears to be a permanent condition. So keep your red figures separate if you store them in big mounds like I used to.
Now on to what can be cleaned: dirt and assorted filth.
I think all of us have received filthy figures in the mail, particularly from Ebay sellers. Especially true for Argentina MIMP (for reasons I cannot answer).
It is much easier to clean the monocolor figures. They can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol or simple soap and water. You can also add a small amount of bleach in the water if the figures are especially dirty. But don't put too much or you might cause the colors to become dull.
A special note: DO NOT USE RUBBING ALCOHOL on the Hardee's Dinosaurs! For some reason they seem more susceptible to fading.
The painted figures bring a special complication:
The paint can wear off the figure if you clean them too hard. This is especially true for rubbing alcohol. I recommend either using soap and water and mildly washing them, or lightly scrubbing them with a cleanser applied to a cotton ball or towel. Be very gentle to prevent paint removal.
One last tip I use is how to get dirt out of hard to reach places. I generally use a pointed object with a dull tip to remove the dirt. Sometimes I place a piece of a cotton ball or alcohol swab on the end of the object. I have found that the best thing to use is a wooden nail stick (see above) because they are not very sharp so they generally won't damage the figure unless you press too hard.
That is about all I have to say about cleaning MIMP. Feel free to share any methods you use or have used below and thanks for reading!
EDIT: Thanks again to James Roth for suggesting this week's blog topic.
I have been among many MIMP collectors that enjoy the Cromy MIMP series. I never knew much about them and they smell like fish-bait, but they are really cool figures in several translucent colors in addition to more typical Black, Orange, Red and Yellow colors.
I have been searching for an answer to what a different Argentina figure was and instead was told that what has been called Cromy MIMP, are not MIMP at all!
This is not terribly surprising considering the mystery of their origins, but the commenter also provided proof.
This is a sealed box of the candies that the monsters were sold from. It translates to Halloween Coffin Surprise and you can see the Bat on the cover.
I was planning on delaying the next blog post until next week (in hopes of getting a weekly discussion pattern), I felt this needed to be addressed immediately. I am going to update the Cromy section immediately.
For now I plan to leave the section on this site, despite not being MIMP. The reasons are two-fold.
First, many people have collected these as MIMP and will probably look for them on a MIMP site. Secondly, there are few English sites that even mention these figures, so I think it is best to leave it here for now. I may eventually make a small site just for them.
Huge thanks to Gianluca Spinoso for the picture and information about the monsters.
This week I had an email from James suggesting I cover a few MIMP topics. Thank you for the suggestions James and this will be the first of those topics: How to Store your MIMP.
This is actually a multifaceted question as it really depends on how many MIMP you have, whether they are painted or not, and what temperature you intend to store them at. I'll start with quantity:
If you are a true MIMP maniac like me, then you should always separate your colors if you store them in bulk. This only matters if the MIMP are packed tightly together. The pressure between the figures can cause them to bleed onto to each other causing what I call red fade:
Red Faded NY Hydra (Check the toes)
This kind of fading is very unpleasant and reduces the value of your figures. If you ever plan to sell them, you will get much more for a perfect figure than a faded one.
If you store them, as I used to, in a large chest, make sure to separate the colors in some way. Ziplocs or grocery bags work fine (subject to one limitation below), or you could use dividers of some sort.
Alternatively, you could place them all on a shelf together. This method should prevent fading except possibly in extreme heat. Even if they touch on a shelf, they won't bleed as there is little pressure on them.
Now for the next consideration: the heat.
I have always thought that heat can cause color bleeding. However my recent experiments have not shown fading among single monsters touching in 90 degree (32 celsius) has not caused any fade over the month they have been touching.
The only thing that I have noticed is that ziploc bags tend to make the figures sticky if the temperature gets too hot. So if you intend to store them in heat, I recommend that you use something other than a ziploc. This especially seems true when the figures are painted. I find that mild use of alcohol or dish soap removes the stickiness (be careful not to rub too hard or you will damage the paint).
Finally, I must talk about the difference between painted and unpainted figures. Unpainted monocolor figures can be stored together in large quantities or heaps of the same color with no risk of fading.
Painted figures have multiple colors and it has not been proven that they bleed like the other figures. I intend to test this eventually, but I have not done so yet.
Nevertheless, I expect that they do bleed based on the fact that many of my green painted figures have red fade. At the very least, the older figures can bleed onto them, so keep them separate. To be totally safe, I always put the painted figures in separate ziplocs. Just make sure (as I said above) to keep them out of the heat or they will get sticky in the bag.
I hope this helps some collectors out there with storage, and please leave comments or questions below. If you pick out any spelling or grammar errors, feel free to post those too and I will edit the post to fix them.
This is a Translucent Red Argentina Vampire. Unlike the base color Argentina that I have come across, it is made of rubber. It is also bigger that the base color Argentina figures:
This is my first Translucent Argentina figure, but I will be adding comparison shots with any others I acquire to see if they are all like this.
I initially started an experiment to determine under what conditions red monsters bleed onto other MIMP. I got a broken Red Cap and sat them on top of a broken Yellow Jotun Troll.
I kept the temperature around 70-75 degrees Fahrenheit in the room during this period and left them for weeks like this:
Absolutely nothing happened to them. Then I got the two largest books I own. Black's Law Dictionary and the Oxford Dictionary. I sat the Troll on top of the Black's Law Dictionary and the Red Cap on top of the Troll. Then I sat the Oxford on top of the Red Cap, squishing them together. I left them this way for 19 days and found a tiny amount of red fade on the non club arm of the Troll near the sleeve:
I hope you can see the fade in the picture, but if not then I will try to get an even closer shot. I kept the room at the same 70-75 Fahrenheit temperature as before. So high amounts of compression will cause red MIMP to fade on other colors.
This was correctly predicted my friend Metalmonkey on LRG. I hope to try this with different temperatures later on to see the effect.
Most collectors of MIMP know that there are 2 different types of Series 3. One type was released in the US at Big Boys Restaurants, the other was released in Shreddies cereal in Canada. This post is specifically targeted at the difference in Big Boys Green and Shreddies Green. First a couple of pictures:
The top picture is the Shreddies green, and the bottom picture is a Big Boys green. Beyond the specific difference of Centaur (bangles on the BB), the shade of green is lighter for Big Boys Series 3.
Orobas was only released in the Shreddies promotion and Blemmyae was only released with the NES game. Centaur has bangles with the Big Boy figures. As far I can tell the slight color difference is the only way to tell the difference between the other Series 3 figures that were released in both promotions.
I had seen several different Orange Sonrics Behemoths and all of them had the scars on the mouth like the left one. I got one in that looks very different. Even his height looks different.
Sonrics vary wildly in their sculpts. Another common sculpt flaw is the dent in the tail of most Manticores.
And I did not want to miss a chance to talk about Behemoths.
There has always been difficulty in trying to tell the difference between the promo Series 2 NG Ghost and the regular NG Ghost. So here is the difference in picture form. The left one is the expensive premium ghost and the right one is the common NG Ghost. The left ghost is slightly brighter, but very similar. This makes it very difficult to tell which one you are getting in Ebay auction pictures. Your best bet is to find both in one lot (as I did) or compare the Ghost's color to other NG figures from Series 1 and Series 2.
This is a more general rant. Which is my specialty.
We all know what price-gouging is. We can argue about what constitutes it. Is buying a bargain purchase and reselling it for market price a price gouge? Or just normal reselling?
The worst problem with the gouging is the ripple effect it causes. Most sellers on Ebay have no idea what MIMP are worth. And they are lazy. Very lazy.
So to find out what price to charge, they do a simple search for listing prices. They see prices like Mike the Gouger on Ebay and bam! That's the opening bid. Then someone else sees their price and prices it according to that. And so on...
This problem could (but won't) be solved in a few ways.
1. Stop using List Prices and look at Sold Prices - after all, the only important price is what the item sold for (or didn't sell for).
2. Stop buying from gougers - this is logical but will never happen in reality. I buy from them too. Most collectors will or risk not getting the best figures.
3. Price your items at market value or what you paid for the item - this is a complicated solution as the market for MIMP wavers. And it assumes that people would change their habits. I try to follow this rule, but there will always be those that do not.
I realize that there is nothing I can say that is new to the topic. But I felt like typing some scrawl on here and figured it would at least give new sellers something to think about.
I think we all look for bargains and I try to sell them at market price, though I sell for less to my friends. There is something fun about having armies of MIMP. I probably wouldn't sell to strangers at all if I was really rich.
I hope you have enjoyed another rant (if anyone actually reads these) and keep on MIMP'ing!
Just finished updating the Cromy sections for the new color and added the Translucent Pink Picture to my guide.
I am also trying to find out about this guy, which I don't think is a MIMP:
All in all it has been a great day for MIMP'ing.
I have no experience blogging. I really don't care at the moment how other people blog. For now, I will stick to random musings on MIMP.
As I go through the guides it becomes painfully clear that despite spending over 20 years in this hobby, that there is still so much I don't know. There are many sites that have MIMP information, but none that have everything. The closest is Raumhafen, which is where I learned much of my early MIMP facts.
But Raumhafen is painfully out of date and no other site has filled the void. That is why I created this site. To fill a need as well as to satiate my own ego. A dinosaur finally conquering modern technology. That to me is a victory.
I am closing in on finishing rough drafts for all the collecting guides. I will update them all as I get more information.
After they are complete I plan to add more pictures and make the site prettier. I'll add more anchor links too to make it more user friendly.
This is my version of a welcome post. I hope you enjoy the site, and please leave a comment if you have suggestions, found any errors or missing information, or just want to talk about MIMP.
For any fellow MIMP maniac that has perused every corner of the site (thanks for reading), you may have noticed that the Monster Ninja Warrior in My Pocket section was almost nonexistent.
I am happy to report that this is about to change. I just won several lots of them on Ebay. So finally I will own my own Ninja Warriors and be able to add some pictures to the main site and to the upcoming collector's guide.
In addition to getting the ninjas, I also grabbed some Monster Wrestlers in My Pocket from both sellers, so I should be able to update that section as well. I will be adding to both sections, but will wait to publish the guides until I get the figures in.
Have fun and keep on MIMP'ing
I am an avid MIMP hunter. I have been collecting these figures for 25 years though I am still learning new facts about them daily.